Grizzly Paradise

      Who wants to run into a grizzly, never mind stalk one and photograph him - me!  After many hugs and good byes from my family (who thought they might be eating Kraft Dinner for the rest of their lives if I didn't return) I was off on an adventure of a lifetime.

     Let me take you to this very exceptional place, only 7 hours via the coastal waterways, approximately 45 km Northeast of Prince Rupert Yacht Club. This place is called "The Khutzeymateen" or "K'tzim-a-Deen" a Tsimshian word meaning "a long inlet in a steep valley".  It is Canada's first grizzly bear sanctuary as well as a Class A Provincial Park, with the highest concentration of grizzlies anywhere in Canada.  The sanctuary is 385, 000 hectares and located in the western Kitimat Ranges with the Khutzeymateen and Kateen Rivers flowing into the inlet.

     On May 16th Dan Wakeman (owner of boat and guide), Hayley Rowlands and Renny Talbot (both Honour Roll Grade 11 students of Prince Rupert High) Ras Larsen (photographer and retired Psych nurse) and John Miller (retired rancher from Red Deer) and myself departed from Prince Rupert Harbour.  We were motoring on a 40' sailboat with a 0/0 tide heading for adventure.  With no wind in our favor the ocean was like glass along our coastal route.  We viewed an abundance of birds, sea lions and spectacular north coastal scenery.  We arrived at the Khutz floating Ranger Station later that day to check in, which is situated near the estuary.  Visitors must register upon entering the park which is only accessible by water, for an interpretation of the sanctuary.   From there we found a sheltered cove to set anchor, relax with a good dinner and a peaceful evening on the boat.  I headed off to dreamland with the sound of a loon whilst gently being rocked by the oceans tides.  The first evening had been a good chance for all of is to get to know each other a little better, as our common goal was the same - to leave the inlet with 'trust', 'respect' 'love' and 'understanding' of the magnificent & powerful grizzly bear.

     Our guide, Dan Wakeman, is first to wake at 6 am, start the diesel engine and pull up anchor.  Breakfast will have to wait, as bear viewing is our first priority.  Eyes barely open, we scramble to the deck to grab a pair of binoculars.   As we quietly & slowly motor down the inlet towards the buoys of the park boundary our eyes are scanning the shores looking for a log like structure that moves - sometimes only slightly.  True adrenaline and excitement oozes from every cell of my body as we spot a grizzly & her cub.  We shut off engines and slowly let the boat drift towards them.

    Obviously not bothered by our presence they continued to eat the lush spring sedge grasses and turn over rocks looking for juicy clams and other hidden sea life on the narrow shoreline.

     Dan was familiar with all the bears we saw, he said the local guides have known the sow since she was a cub, he had nicknamed her Lucy.  When Lucy was a 2 yr old she witnessed her mother being mauled & killed by another grizzly - Lucy now raises her 2 year old cub (Sparky) in a manner as to avoid any conflict.  She did not appear threatened by us and let us enter her world through our eyes.

     Dan warned us to be aware of any signs of distress in the animals, if they stop chewing grass for more than 15 - 20 seconds and starred in our direction it was a sign to be very aware and give the bears more distance.  She continued to chew methodically.  An "awe inspiring" photographic session began in the presence of one of the world's most respected rulers of the forests in North America.   The next four days were filled with much of the same exhilarating experiences.   At some points your adrenaline almost overtakes you.  When a bear allows you to be in their close presence there is truly no feeling like it.  Because of the areas high sensitivity and strict conservation our human activity was curtailed to short sessions with the bears.  At high tide the bears had little to eat on the narrow shoreline and spent much of their time in the dense forest cover - thus we made the most of each precious moment.

      During the day there was always something to explore - by land or water.   While waiting for low tide we could explore the waters leading into the estuary by sea kayak.  The curious sea lions would pop up within feet of the kayak, blink their big eyes and disappear, only to be seen moments later.  As we paddled around in the inlet there were otters playing at the bottom of a waterfall, bald eagles soaring above and numerous waterfowl taking off and landing all around our kayaks.  All were curious of the new visitors in their park.

     At low tide we entered the estuary (access is restricted to groups guided by approved commercial guides) in our zodiac to explore the land that was covered with 24 ft. of water just hours before.  Unveiled was a park like setting with lush green sedge grasses, colorful pink thimbleberry bushes and think with wild lupins cradled in the high mountains that grow straight up on either side.  A little farther inland, we were led to an island of gargantuan thick yellow skunk cabbage, delicate wild honeysuckles, begonias, rhubarb, licorice ferns & fiddleheads.  An old growth forest of 1000 yr old Alluvian Sitka spruce trees neighbor these plants.  The Sitka's tower over a hundred feet and must be about 30' at the trunk.  Under the base of one of these trees is where we entered a massive bear den.  On the forest floor we observed a bear trail where for thousands of years grizzly bears have walked foot for foot in the same trails - a habitual pattern leaving permanent indents in the mossy soil.  Along on of the trails we came across a bear 'scratch' tree, where the bears rub vigorously on a tree to get the sap running so as they may leave their scent on bark & pitch, marking their territory.  This is a world like none other on earth - not changing but growing in the spirit of grizzlies.

      When our journey finally came to an end I left the Khutz with tears in my eyes as I was moved by the pristine yet powerful nature and the vastness of a world I was never apart of before now.  I will return one day and I'll bet not a lot has changed, which is a good thing ....

Wendy Perry